Trail of the Trolls Overview
- Countries: Sweden, Norway
- Ride Norway's famous roads - the Trollstigen, the Lysevegen, and the Atlantic Way
- Cross the Arctic Circle
- Visit Fjords designated as World Heritage sites.
- Hike to Pulpit Rock
- Experience the midnight sun!
From Oslo to the remarkable Lofoten Islands, the Trail of the Trolls is an exploration of the stunning bit of earth known as Norway.
Motorcyclists seem to have the most fun, and some of the best rides, in two types of terrain; mountains and coastlines. Using these criteria, Norway nails it! This ‘little’ country, about 80% the size of California, has the 2nd longest coastline in the world. Almost 1,200 fjords and 85 mountains over 1,000 meters means this remarkable country has plenty to keep enthusiastic riders happy.
The center of Nordic culture—Oslo
Our Trail of the Trolls begins in Norway’s capital city, Oslo. Almost a third of the country’s population lives in the region thus there is no better place to become acquainted with Norwegians.
The free day in Oslo offers easy riding routes, allowing time to become acquainted with the BMW you will be riding for the next three weeks. Maybe a visit to the center of the city sounds more attractive. Spend the day as you like!
Head north, Adventurers…
Once the tour is in motion changes come quickly. In contrast to the urban sprawl behind us, the rich agriculture of the Hadeland region is delightful. Both population and traffic decrease on the way north to Lillehammer, site of the 1994 Winter Olympics. We overnight in Ringebu, a small town with a Stave Church dating from the middle ages.
A lakeside road in Sweden
Skirting the eastern edge of Rondane National Park, we catch glimpses of many of the high peaks in Norway over our left shoulder. The next two days have a theme – big miles, small roads. Each of those miles takes us further from crowds, as we make our way into, and through, the Swedish county of Jämtland. This vast area has the lightest population density in Europe. In fact, there is only one city in the entire county! Many miles and two overnights later we return to Norway, close to the Arctic Circle.
… to where the sun doesn’t set
After so much time surrounded by little but majestic nature it is time for a break. A curious break, as we are now in the land of the midnight sun. It will be 5 days before we see the sun set again!
Bodø, our choice for a double overnight, is a great place to put your feet up. In this “big” northern enclave of 57,000 there is much to do. Pass the day wandering about town, enjoying the public artwork, the lively cafes, and the local music scene.
Norway's Midnight Sun
Saltstraumen, with the world’s most powerful tidal current, is nearby. 4 times a day, 110 billion gallons of seawater passes through the 500’ wide Saltstraumen strait, on its way to fill, or drain, the Skjerstad fjord. Like so many other bits of natural phenomena in Norway, the big somehow becomes the normal.
A number of excellent little roads curve around the bays and inlets of Nordland for those who simply have to take a longer ride.
The most beautiful place on earth?
The Lonely Planet Guide says, of the Lofoten archipelago, “The beauty of this place is simply staggering.” Don’t take their word for it—see for yourself.
The Lofoten tourist office says “It’s bright here day and night, and we can sleep in the autumn.” A good thing, all the daylight, as our rides through the islands will be punctuated with “I can’t get enough of this” and in fact, the breathtaking scenery is always visible!
A fisherman's shed in the Lofoten Islands
Those big days heading north through Sweden added latitude that we must now shed. A ferry takes us from the archipelago back to the ‘mainland’. This is the first of many required crossings over the next few days. The ride south is interesting thanks to the picturesque Atlantic coastline. The routine is: weave in and around tiny harbors, catch a ferry, ride through out-of-the-way fishing villages. Repeat. Throughout all this towering mountains just to the east promise more altitude.
The Atlantic Road - one of Norway's famous tourist routes
Time for a rest
A double overnight in Namsos gives us another opportunity to relax and recharge. The rides from here are short and coastal, playing on the shores of the Norwegian Sea. A few easy hikes from the city lead to excellent viewpoints over the bay and surrounding area.
A Farm on Norway's Atlantic Coastline
After these days of coastal riding it is time to succumb to the allure of the high mountains and dive into them. In those mountains we find what makes Norway so very special—the big fjords. Really, seriously, remarkably, impressively big fjords.
Our entry to this fascinating area is via an iconic road. The Trollstigen (Ladder of the trolls) is, along with the Alp’s Stelvio pass and Col de l'Iseran, a road found on many “top 10” lists. It is a big deal, and here we are!
The Trollstigen
Statistically, there are many ‘big’ things in Norway. Norwegian men are, on average, an inch taller than American men, women 3½ inches taller. The coastline is 400% longer than America’s. Four of the world’s highest waterfalls are here. Big when used in Norway means something special.
The rides focus on the fjords
From the Ørnesvingen viewpoint a significant portion of the breathtaking Geirangerfjord lies before you. The “ah-hah” moment comes not when the eyes scan from one end of this impressive scene to the other, but when you see a few boats cruising down the fjord. With the realization that those tiny boats are actually huge ocean-going cruise ships, the immensity of the scene becomes clear. Along this 9-mile UNESCO World Heritage Site mountains up to a mile high stand sentinel. “Big” doesn’t do it justice.
Norwegian Fjords are breathtaking
P&O Cruises will be sailing their new flagship, the MS Iona, into the Geirangerfjord a few days before we arrive. This monster is 1,130 feet long, with 7,000 people on board! Imagine how Geiranger, with its 250 residents, changes when those folk disembark together. Fortunately, during our stay a solitary (smaller) ship will be in port. We win!
Departing the majestic Geirangerfjord we head to Aurlandsvangen, at the head of the stunning Aurlandsfjord. Along the way discover another unique aspect of riding in Norway. There are no mountain passes to climb! Most of the terrain is quite elevated except where the landform is pierced by fjords. There the road descends to sea level. The roads, in layout, grades, and views are indistinguishable from mountain passes. But the end is at a fjord shoreline rather than ‘up there’ at a summit.
We are up from, and down into, fjords for much of the balance of this adventure. Seeing a fjord from sinuous curves on the descent into it is impressive. Seeing it from the deck of a ship offers a special perspective, and following our overnight at the Nærøyfjord we have booked a cruise for the group to discover that view. Our bet is that you will return home thinking that you have seen one of the prettiest places on the entire planet! The turmoil of whether it is prettier than yesterday’s “prettiest place on the entire planet” we leave to you.
Geiranger Fjord from a distance
Bergen and Stavanger—double overnights in each city
Our next stop is Bergen. Norway’s second-largest city has a much different vibe than Oslo. It is accessible, it is dynamic, it is another of those Norwegian places that you will not forget. Wander on the Hanseatic Wharf, head up in the hills to discover new views of the town, spend time in the hotel spa, or do nothing at all. Regardless of what you do, Bergen is an excellent place to do it.
We recommended a ride on this free-day, across, and around, the Hardangerfjord. The question is, are you willing to trade a rest day for today’s “prettiest place on the entire planet”?
Bergen's Hanseatic Wharf
An example of how Norwegians have overcome natural obstacles is found on our ride from Bergen to Stavanger, where a combination of ferries, tunnels, and bridges meld to allow us to ride from one island to another and cross fjords along this rugged coastline. The Ryfast tunnel, which we use on this ride, is at almost 9 miles long, another Norwegian “big” thing. It is the deepest subsea road tunnel in the world and features 7% grades inside.
Free day activities in Stavanger present the problem we have come to know well—take in the town, or discover the newest “prettiest place in the world,” this time the Lysefjord. The twist? Should you take a ½ day hike you will see the fjord from the Pulpit Rock viewpoint, 1800’ above the water, and take a once-in-a-lifetime photo? Your call!
Preikestolen, (Pulpit Rock), above the Lysefjord
Cruise the Lysefjord
One last ferry trip is recommended, along the Lysefjord to the dock in Lysebotn. Here another iconic road, the Lysevegen, winds up the side of the fjord via 27 hairpins. From the top it continues into the Telemark and offers us a delightful challenge on our ride to Kristiansand.
The ferry into Lysefjord
Our final day of riding is, by the standards set over the past weeks, almost a commute. Heading into Oslo the traffic and population increase until we are back where it all started. The conversation at dinner tonight will be a smorgasbord of memories, as we catalog what we have seen and experienced. The big of Norway is now something we can relate to!
